I have an Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra. I hate that it’s proprietary, but in the resin printing world the only non-proprietary option is Prusa, and it was just too small and expensive to justify. My Elegoo doesnt get network connectivity (so no risk of unapproved updates), and I use prusa slicer to slice and then uvtools to convert to the “encrypted” chitubox format. Since the printer isn’t allowed to update, I’m not worried about ever being forced into using chitubox.

I don’t really care about network connectivity for it; the built in camera is useless for me. I just have a rpi zero with a webcam on it for monitoring, and I also have an IOT switch controlled by that pi via a lan-only http server with a toggle button to control its power. If I see a print is failing via the webcam, I just cut power to the whole printer to stop it remotely. This works even outside my LAN via VPN.

I do still have to start prints the old fashioned way using a usb stick. This doesn’t bug me much, since I have to go check on resin levels, make sure there’s no crap in the tank, etc before starting a print anyways. I have a short usb extender cable to avoid wearing out the usb port on the printer itself as well. I have mucked about with using the rpi as a dummy usb drive where I can just upload files to the rpi and then the printer reads off of it via the usb port, but I couldn’t get it working :/

I’m happy enough with the printer itself - it’s fast, reliable (so far) and produces some high quality prints. The price was very reasonable at the time (iirc $450 for the printer, $250 for wash and cure station), all things considered. If someone ever produced a mainboard that supported an open-source firmware for it, I would buy and install it in a heartbeat.

It doesnt look too hard to build from source if you want to go that route… You could just make a debug apk and install it with ADB.

That’s the size I have, so thanks a ton!

Nice! Just a tip, it would be helpful to mention the size of the pegboard, such as 1" distance with 1/4" holes. There are a few different sizes of pegboard.

Oh 3d printer resin is absolutely not UV resistant - resin printers use UV light to solidify the resin at each layer, and exposing a print to too much UV light after printing can cause UV burn, similar to a thermoplastic.

Coating the print in a UV resist clear coat should prevent UV light from reaching the print itself, and preventing the burn; think of it as sunscreen for your print 😉

Oh, another thought - you could use a UV blocking clear coat such as this on your print. I still would avoid PLA though, since it might get hot in the sun. It would be important to get a complete coat with that spray, even between layer lines. You might want to think about using a clear resin if you have access to a resin printer, since it would have a much smoother finish before being coated.

Hmmm, I would usually go for ASA for anything outside, but searching around for transparent ASA comes up empty… I guess maybe transparent ASA isn’t a thing? Too bad, since you could smooth it with acetone to make it even lower opacity. You could also look at Polycarbonate and PETG, which I know can be made transparent, but those might yellow a bit after a few years.

I’m interested in other people’s thoughts. Definitely a good question!

I was on an old repurposed desktop with 16gb ram and a i7 6700k at the time.

I haven’t felt that I’ve been missing any features from Gitlab. I do use Woodpecker-CI for runners because Forgejo action’s weren’t working for Docker builds, but I think the Forgejo actions have come a long way since I made that decision; I’ll have to try them out again one of these days.

I tried hosting Gitlab for a while, but configuration and upgrades were difficult, and your really have to stay on top of updates due to vulnerabilities. It also used a lot of resources and wasn’t super responsive.

I moved to Forgejo (a hard fork of Gitea), and haven’t looked back; I cant recommend it enough. It’s fast, doesn’t take a lot of resources, actively developed, and has all the features I need.

Codeberg is a public instance of Forgejo if you want to try it out first.

Regardless of whether you are using a block or an allow list, you have to maintain the list…

I’m not sure what your point is; if you want to devote your time, effort, and potential liabilities to it, that’s up to you. I just figured I would share a perspective on why I didn’t want to do that.

I appreciate all the hard work done by instance hosts; using individual Lemmy instances are a privelege, not a right. I would fully understand and not be upset if my home instance were to shut down at a moments notice.

Sure, but then you’re left with text only and are relying on your blocklist for URLs, which is just going to be a game of whack-a-mole. I personally didn’t want to have to worry about that in my free time, but I’m sure other folks feel differently.

I self hosted a Lemmy instance for a little while, but I stopped over concerns of malicious actors posting CSAM which would then get federated over to my server. I don’t have the appetite to deal with that, and I’m glad I shut it down because just a few weeks later there was a big instance of it happening all over Lemmy, and I’m sure I would have had to deal with cleaning it up on my server too. Just something to keep in mind.

Otherwise though, the setup process isn’t too complex.

I’ve personally been quite pleased with the combination of Frigate and some Amcrest POE cameras. Just make sure the cameras you are getting support RTSP though and you should be able to use them with Frigate.

Also make sure you block the cameras from reaching the public internet using your firewall, and only make them reachable from your Frigate host. Personally I use a VLAN with no internet access and enforce tagging at the switch level (i.e. don’t trust the cameras to maintain their own VLAN) settings.

Looks a lot like a carburetor float needle to me. It allows the flow of gasoline into the float bowl, which sets the amount of fuel fed into the engine.

It’s common for float needles (and carb parts in general) to be made of brass, and the wire clip being made out of steel is also consistent with a float needle. The plastic tip is probably used for a better seal when the float is up, closing the needle port.