One more picture below.
Behold, rebar clamps to give my veggies a nice climbing structure.
They’re 3 total parts and are held together heat sets and bolts.
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I saw the initial picture and thought “Whatever that is is still a mystery print to me.” haha
Thanks for the explanation. I thought it was some sort of construction-related apparatus, with that rebar.
Happy to hear the photos revealed the mystery, lol.
I thought the wire of the fence was just unrolled filament!
Don’t take this the wrong way, but you know rebar tie wire already exists for exactly that purpose, right?
(And before anybody complains, the picture already had the red arrow when I found it.)
Does the wire last when it’s out in the open? Mostly those ties are incase in concrete.
Yes actually. It is a great hot fix for car stuff. With my auto body shop, I always carried a few feet of tie wire and a Leatherman because I often dealt with damaged fresh auction cars that I just needed to get to the shop in one piece.
I worked for some good and some sketchy used car dealers. There were many repairs where the absolute cheapest minimum fixes were required. These were often Buy-Here Pay-Here car lots where the cost is kept low, the cars are not great, and the loans are predatory, but they will finance absolutely anyone. I won’t get into the really bad parts, but these places suck and are a product of the exploitive Republican South in the USA, and target minority communities. Most of their cars get repossessed many times over, and while these are supposed to be auctioned to levey the recovered cost against the loan, there are major loopholes. Like the law is not worded in a way that excludes the previous auction price paid by the owner. It also allows for deductions of costs related to preparing the vehicle for auction and transport… Lots of sleazy stuff happening there.
Anyways… I got the same cars to work on over and over for years from one of those dealers. I often used tie wire to fix trim parts and stuff. It holds better than many actual fasteners.
In fact, when I did pit for a dirt track sprint car, nearly every fastener on the race car has a hole drilled into the bolt shaft above the nut with a bit of this same tie wire pushed through and twisted. Lots of aviation stuff has the same. Cotter pins are a thing. Like your vehicle’s tie rods have a cotter pinned castle nut, which is basically the same thing but a pin that is less prone to corrosion in the long term. Still, tie wire will last years and 50k-100k miles even in bad weather and conditions.
When I repair stuff like a plastic bumper cover that is torn or in pieces, I often used tie wire to stitch align the pieces exactly where I want them. Then I plastic weld repair the back side by embedding the stitched cross part of the wire in a special way. The wire becomes part of the reinforcing structure. Then I clip the wires where they went through from the back, remove the front part of each stitch, and cosmetically repair the crack and stitching holes in the plastic.
My shift linkage has been held together with bailing wire going on 4 years now. One more year and it will have outlasted the original bushing clip thing.
Hmm… not sure. But nevertheless, OP’s solution still feels kinda overengineered to me.
I do! But I also know that rebar tie wire is intended for static situation. This whole thing moves around quite a bit when it’s covered in leaves on a windy day
“Honey! We’re ready to defend the tomatoes from that evil coalition army of rabbit deer”
Believe it or not, the outside fence, which is super jankey, is pretty effective at keeping deer out. Rabbits, not so much :(
ASA or PETG right?
…
Right?
ASA
Nice, that sucker should last years.
I hope so! The zip tie solution only made it one season :(
I would personally cram in something related to COAX-SEAL into the screw holes. Having setup a few cables outside for antennas (ham radio) I have learned to never trust metal to metal connections when exposed to weather.
Coax-seal might be a bit hard to work with, so maybe some silicone caulk would work?
Water will find it’s way in even if you try to seal it. Just put some anti seize on the threads.
I absolutely agree and the goal is to extend that time for as long as possible. (But yeah, anti seize is actually a really good idea.)
Sounds like you have never had the “pleasure” of working with coax junction sealants before. It’s not too bad, but it’s also not fun either. It is very effective though.
I usually use butyl tape to seal my coax connections. It’s a bit of a pain to remove, but mineral spirits cleans off the residue fairly well.
There was a precursor to butyl tape that I am thinking of specifically. It was more clay-like and just as nasty. (It would have been easier (subjective) to pinch off balls of the stuff and cram it in those screw holes.)
No mind. You had the correct solution, me thinks.
Due to the two piece construction here you would have to wrap this whole thing in sealant to keep water out because (to para-quote Dr. Ian Malcolm) “water uhh finds a way”.
Dab of anti-sieze or stainless hardware would be my go to if I wanted to pull this apart after a couple years.
Ah, galvanic corrosion. Sealing the heat sets would be a pain as they’re open to water on both sides. I also don’t tend to take these apart, so I’m tempted to just leave them alone.
Wow great design! So practical and simple
